London’s extensive list of fusion restaurants has added another to its collection with the appearance of Engel and Jang, the latest venture from Des Gunewardena, that unites a 1920s Berlin-inspired cabaret bar with a Japanese-Korean restaurant. Choosing the mezzanine of the historic Royal Exchange for a location was a canny move and it’s hard not to be awed by the striking stone columns and high glass ceilings that drench the space in light. We walk towards the back, where two grand staircases lead in opposite directions.
Our evening begins at Engel, the left-hand side, where an artistic menu of expertly crafted cocktails can be enjoyed against a backdrop of gentle crooners. The transition to Jang is seamless - we follow the red velvet carpets that help unite the two spaces as smooth jazz echoes with us round the corners. A clever design has utilised the existing architecture, turning each curved archway into an intimate dining nook: it’s the perfect people-watching spot as we gaze on from above.
No detail is an afterthought – Jang is flamboyant and meticulously designed, from the kimono-clad waiters and hot towels delivered to each table at the start of the evening, all the way to the crocodile platter that winds its way around plates of fresh sushi and sashimi. But don’t worry, this theatricality comes at no expense to the cooking, something confirmed in our first bite of the Jang KFC: crispy, golden morsels that are delicious on their own, but transformed by a sweet yet spicy gochujang sauce.
The K-BBQ is a must try. A charcoal grill sits at the centre of the table, smoking away around slices of sirloin and bringing a charred and smoky taste to the delicately cooked steak. A pristine white plate, comes shaped like a flower, offering six unique accompaniments within its petals. Wasabi butter, pollock roe and pickled chilli jangajji allow us to pick and choose, each bite offering something new.
Sides are not to be overlooked: an endive kimchi, served in an oyster shell, provides a tangy, sour crunch, whilst a black cod doenjang soup delivers a salty broth swimming with tender cubes of fish, cucumber and tofu. Desserts, while enjoyable, don’t quite match the brilliance of the mains and starters. Our Korean doughnuts arrive overly crisp, their texture not quite saved by the accompanying Biscoff crumb and salted caramel ice cream.
For those who like a little added flair to their evening, Jang brings it in spades. Throw in high quality cooking and its iconic location, and you’ve got a winning combination.