Old-fashioned at heart but with big-city appeal, Il Baretto is that rare thing – a restaurant with a subterranean space that can be just as thronged and atmospheric as the pavement-level salon. Downstairs, the wood-burning oven is a major feature, and the daily bread is recommended alongside starters of grilled courgettes, burrata paired with vitello tonnato or a carpaccio of Sicilian red prawns. On the pasta side, readers reckon the truffle macaroni is “out of this world”, while a pairing of home-made tagliatelle with pesto demonstrates the kitchen’s unfussy confidence. It’s back to the fiery mouth of the oven for pizza crudo, topped with Parma ham, rocket and Parmesan, and there’s also a selection of hefty grills. Pudding goes flavour-first with tried-and-true combinations ranging from peanut mousse with caramelised banana to pannacotta with cherries. Service is “traditional”, the better to serve a compendium of regional Italian wines.