London isn’t short of summer pop-ups, but few match the elegance of the Mandarin Oriental’s Hyde Park Garden. This sliver of Knightsbridge transforms into a pastel-hued escape, complete with immaculately manicured gardens, sprawling parasols, and a bar stocked with enough rose to fuel Ascot for a week. The backdrop of Hyde Park hums gently, a distant murmur as we settle in, spritz in hand, to what proves to be a rather refined afternoon.
Unlike many gimmicky summer pop-ups, this one is backed by serious culinary pedigree: the team behind the two Michelin-starred Dinner by Heston leads the charge, with a menu starring some of the chef’s most iconic dishes. Chief among them is the legendary Meat Fruit - an imitation mandarin, complete with delicate dimpled skin and added leaves for the full effect. We slice it open to reveal a silky chicken liver parfait, that’s rich, buttery and impossibly smooth. The sweet, citrussy gel coating brightens each bite, especially when slathered over thick, charred sourdough.
Mains are more of a mixed bag. ‘Chips and Fish’ features a generous haddock fillet, perfectly flaking, and cloaked in a wildly crisp, coral-like batter. On the side, Heston’s triple-cooked chips are reliably excellent - crunchy on the outside, fluffy within - paired with minty mushy peas and creamy seaweed-infused tartare. It feels a bit too hefty for the dainty garden setting, but the tiny perfume bottle of malt vinegar - designed for spritzing your fish - adds a playful, satisfying flourish.
Less convincing, however, is the Compost Tart. Ricotta and roasted vegetables are bundled into delicate pastry and topped with a ‘compost dirt’ crumble made of celeriac, rye and truffle. It's conceptually clever but fails to fully hit its potential, craving something sharp to cut through the gentle flavours.
Dessert is a different story. A wedge of slow, spit-roasted pineapple is served in all its sticky, smoky glory, paired with a brandy-soaked, sugar-dusted brioche loaf. Boozy and indulgent, it’s easy to see why this has become a Heston signature.
There’s a quiet luxury to Hyde Park Garden with its astutely professional staff and Michelin-calibre dishes. Throw in a picture-perfect backdrop, and we’d argue there’s nowhere better to spend a sunny, summer afternoon.