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SquareMeal Review of Hyde Park Garden

Silver Award

London isn’t short of summer pop-ups, but few match the elegance of the Mandarin Oriental’s Hyde Park Garden. This sliver of Knightsbridge transforms into a pastel-hued escape, complete with immaculately manicured gardens, sprawling parasols, and a bar stocked with enough rose to fuel Ascot for a week. The backdrop of Hyde Park hums gently, a distant murmur as we settle in, spritz in hand, to what proves to be a rather refined afternoon.

Unlike many gimmicky summer pop-ups, this one is backed by serious culinary pedigree: the team behind the two Michelin-starred Dinner by Heston leads the charge, with a menu starring some of the chef’s most iconic dishes. Chief among them is the legendary Meat Fruit - an imitation mandarin, complete with delicate dimpled skin and added leaves for the full effect. We slice it open to reveal a silky chicken liver parfait, that’s rich, buttery and impossibly smooth. The sweet, citrussy gel coating brightens each bite, especially when slathered over thick, charred sourdough.

Mains are more of a mixed bag. ‘Chips and Fish’ features a generous haddock fillet, perfectly flaking, and cloaked in a wildly crisp, coral-like batter. On the side, Heston’s triple-cooked chips are reliably excellent - crunchy on the outside, fluffy within - paired with minty mushy peas and creamy seaweed-infused tartare. It feels a bit too hefty for the dainty garden setting, but the tiny perfume bottle of malt vinegar - designed for spritzing your fish - adds a playful, satisfying flourish.

Less convincing, however, is the Compost Tart. Ricotta and roasted vegetables are bundled into delicate pastry and topped with a ‘compost dirt’ crumble made of celeriac, rye and truffle. It's conceptually clever but fails to fully hit its potential, craving something sharp to cut through the gentle flavours.

Dessert is a different story. A wedge of slow, spit-roasted pineapple is served in all its sticky, smoky glory, paired with a brandy-soaked, sugar-dusted brioche loaf. Boozy and indulgent, it’s easy to see why this has become a Heston signature.

There’s a quiet luxury to Hyde Park Garden with its astutely professional staff and Michelin-calibre dishes. Throw in a picture-perfect backdrop, and we’d argue there’s nowhere better to spend a sunny, summer afternoon.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisine
British, Cheese, Fish and chips, Gluten-free options, Ice Cream, Modern European, Seafood, Steak, Vegan friendly, Vegetarian friendly
Ambience
Cool, Fine dining, Fun, Glamorous, Lively, Luxury, Quiet conversation, Quirky, Traditional, Unique, Widely spaced tables
Food Occasions
All day dining, Dinner, Late night dining, Lunch
Alfresco And Views
Beer garden, Great views, Outside seating, Terrace
Special Features
Dog friendly, Wheelchair access
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celeb spotting, Celebrations, Child friendly, Dates, Group dining [8+], Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating
Food Hygiene Rating 5 for Hyde Park Garden

About

If ever there were a setting made for summer decadence, Hyde Park Garden is it. Hidden in plain sight beside one of London’s grandest parks and backed by the might of the Mandarin Oriental, Hyde Park Garden is an al fresco sanctuary, delivering refined British dining with a distinctly playful twist.

Overlooking the sweeping lawns of Hyde Park, the garden comes alive during the warmer months as the team behind two Michelin-starred Dinner by Heston Blumenthal brings its inventive touch outdoors. Here, British classics are quietly reimagined with seasonal flair - starting with the humble chip. Heston’s now-iconic triple-cooked creation is paired with the day’s freshest Cornish fish in a dish simply titled Chips and Fish. You’ll never look at a seaside supper the same way again.

From perfectly crisp pork skin with herb salt to hay-smoked salmon with sorrel, the menu is a celebration of summer’s greatest hits. Sharing boards elevate the picnic staple: native lobster rolls meet Coronation chicken with apricot and tarragon, while the infamous Meat Fruit makes a welcome appearance, its delicate mandarin exterior concealing a silky chicken liver parfait. There’s even truffle mushroom parfait for those leaning plant-forward.

Of course, no English garden party is complete without something pink in hand. Enter Château d’Esclans - the vineyard behind the ‘Rosé Renaissance’ - whose wines are served alongside a curated list of cocktails made with Whispering Angel. Try the Whispering Spritz or go bold with a Rosé Negroni, featuring Mandarin Oriental’s own gin. Desserts, naturally, toe the line between nostalgic and indulgent. A textbook Eton Mess hits all the right notes, while the millionaire’s tart - dark chocolate ganache, salted caramel and vanilla - feels like a wink to your inner sweet tooth.

Elegant yet relaxed, whimsical yet meticulous, Hyde Park Garden is a rare summer escape in the heart of the city - where crisp rosé flows, classics are reinvented, and the view is always something to savour.

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Inspired by fish and chips

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Details

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Location
66 Knightsbridge, Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7LA

020 7201 3790 020 7201 3790

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