Named after its chef-patron Henry Scott – a native of nearby Warminster – Henry’s the restaurant serves elegant plates of modern European food in a refreshingly simple dining room in a honey-stoned Bath townhouse: think whitewashed walls, stripped wooden floors, unclothed tables and church-like dining chairs.
The a la carte menu offers a pleasingly brief three options per course, so freshness is guaranteed. Expect some classic flavour pairings given a fresh spin thanks to some unexpected combinations. Starter, perhaps, with glazed pigeon breast with spinach, chicken liver parfait and pistachio, or a Weymouth king scallop with rhubarb, black garlic, apple and ponzu.
To follow, there might be roast brill not only with grilled celeriac and bouillabaisse sauce but also black pudding quinoa, or there could be crispy pork belly with broccoli stem, candied shiitake, clams and a garlic and yoghurt puree.
Puddings keep up the bold arrangements, so that the warm chocolate tart is matched to Sichuan custard, while the panna cotta is flavoured with kaffir lime and accompanied by an orange ricotta dumpling.
A separate vegetarian menu, meanwhile, offers dishes specifically created for non-meat and fish eaters, rather than simply being a case of having the animal protein removed. There’s a zesty Asian-accented avocado with yuzu, radish, cucumber, lime and ponzu dressing, plus main courses of barbecue celeriac with pickled mushroom, celeriac consommé and leek oil, or grilled salsify with cauliflower, sprout tops and goat cheese.
Lunch clocks in at a not-bad £20 for two courses, when 11 wines by the glass might tempt whether you’re a local worker taking a break from the office or a tourist in town to take the waters at the Roman baths. If you have time to linger, go by the bottle, though you’ll need to spends upwards of £40 before things get interesting with the likes of Austrian Gruner Veltliner or Kiwi organic Pinot Noir.