Established in 1982, Gulshan plies its trade unceremoniously on Exmouth Market, serving up a huge menu of tandooris and other curry-house staples to the local crowd. It doesn’t look much from the outside, but people are here for the reasonably priced food and affable service. To perk up your appetite, try prawn puri or a small serving of lamb tikka before hitting the main event – perhaps chicken bhuna, rogan josh, meat Madras or king-prawn vindaloo with the usual sides, breads and rice. Also brace yourself for more unusual specialities such as lamb jhal pherejee loaded with fresh green chillis, onions and peppers. To drink, a bottle of Tiger or Cobra beer should do the trick.