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Rapidly growing pizza chain Franco Manca has taken over from Pizza Express as the chattering classes’ pizzeria of choice. It has won hearts and minds with its high-quality ingredients, its bargain house wine and its cheap Neapolitan food. So much of what Franco Manca does also feels just right for the times: filtered water arrives unbidden, there’s no service charge, the stripped-back design looks cool and the kitchen is fully committed to organic, artisan produce. Some punters may find the flavour of the chewy sourdough crust too assertive, but nobody could argue with the price – a pizza loaded with Gloucester Old Spot ham and wild mushrooms, followed by an affogato will leave change from a tenner. Other downsides are few, but we have to mention the queues – it’s first come, first served.
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