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Bringing a welcome gust of contemporary London to an uninspiring neighbourhood, this glossy all-dayer takes advantage of Lambeth North station’s reopening, while its European menu reveals a proclivity for Italy. Florentine manages to sidestep the typical hotel restaurant bolt-on vibe thanks to a separate entrance, as well as plenty of distance and demarcation between diners and the hotel foyer. The decor ticks as many fashion boxes as possible (gold chainmail curtains, copper lampshades and chunky leather chairs), while the open-plan room incorporates bright, window-side tables, intimate seating and a big bar. The fantastically crisp, rosemary-scattered ciabatta is a must-order and demonstrates a kitchen executing straightforward food with aplomb. There’s an all-day egg menu which will make this a useful go-to option for the area, while more substantial choices, such as a hefty, sumptuous braised lamb shank, means most appetites will be satisfied here. We found service to be enthusiastic (if a little overbearing), while effort has clearly been put into a wine list which includes a Cornish sparkler and a Romanian white by the glass. Florentine isn’t reinventing the wheel, but it does deliver a polished, strong-value package.
020 3146 5800
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