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One-dish restaurants are often divisive, with some diners seeing the showcasing of a single primary ingredient as gimmicky. Fancy Crab, a huge two-floor site, aims to prove otherwise with its star attraction: the red king crab. The theme is hammered home with a nautical colour scheme and crab claw illustrations on the walls. We sampled dishes from the extensive all-day menu, beginning with a warming shot of king crab bisque soup, before continuing with guacamole (prepared tableside by switched-on staff), which arrived peppered with shreds of crab and accompanied by tortilla chips. Crustacean devotees might opt for a whole king crab (served on an attention-grabbing platter with attached sparkler), but we chose the Singapore chilli crab: a heady mix of light spice and prime, meaty crab served with warm brioche rolls for dipping in the creamy sauce. Alarmingly, crab even appears among the desserts, but thankfully ‘crab’ cheesecake is simply shaped to resemble a crab leg – the dense cream-cheese filling was delicious, though needed a thicker biscuit base. Fancy Crab does a good job of reinventing the crab in sufficient ways to keep diners interested, though high prices (£23 for a burger) detract from what is otherwise an enjoyable restaurant.
0203 0969 9484
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