Jackson Boxer’s decision to pivot from seafood-focused Orasay to a more wide-spectrum menu at Dove is an interesting sign of the times in London. The former never quite made enough money, he says, no matter how widely acclaimed and popular it was. Orasay is a sad loss for London that leaves us with a little hole in our heart, and leaves new restaurant Dove with big shoes to fill.
The interiors are largely the same, which is a good thing in our eyes - we’ve always appreciated Orasay’s cosy, neighbourhood vibe. That ecru and red ochre colour palette still feels stylish and relaxed, and Dove manages to nail the little details: staff are friendly and super knowledgeable; the room has a nice buzz without feeling too hectic; and little details like candles and flowers on the tables help to lift the minimal styling from being too austere.
Boxer is still one of London’s most distinctive chefs - he has a mad genius mind for flavour combos and a knack for writing brilliant menus. Released from Orasay’s briny shackles, his menus at Dove soar with newfound freedom. Deep fried taleggio and truffle lasagna. Ricotta dumplings with lobster cream and lime leaf. Potato cake with raw scallop, yuzu and chicken crumb. Dove is a wild ride but thankfully, it stays firmly guided thanks to Boxer’s touch and way with flavours.
There’s no better example of that than a combo of winter tomatoes, sour cream and chilli crisp; it has a definite ‘something your drunk housemate threw together’ vibe but lord does it work. There’s no Lao Gan Ma to be seen - Boxer’s custom homemade chilli crisp uses various smokey chilli varieties. Of course it does. We’d have bought a jar on the spot if it was available. Just when the rollercoaster feels like it could leave the rails, there’s a beautiful bit of classic fish cooking - a steamed tranche of hake in all its pearlescent glory, sitting in a bath of Champagne sauce.
Everything we come across at Dove feels like someone has thought about it. The drinks list is neat, but there are oft-changing wine specials by the glass too. Our food arrives thoughtfully grouped into courses and at near-perfect timings. A pair of gentlemen manage to set fire to their table flowers and the team, unphased, swing the doors open to air the place out. This is still a proper restaurant, but dare we say, Dove might be even better than Orasay. Consider those big shoes filled.