Dosa by Akira Back trades in anticipation. Tucked away down a corridor from the flagship Akira Back restaurant, it admits just 14 diners per service, each ushered into the serene orbit of executive chef Jihun Kim. One of a small few Michelin-starred Korean restaurants worldwide, Dosa revolves around tasting menus that splice Korean and European influences, often with British produce of the highest calibre.
Inside, it’s an intimate bunker, with a terrazzo marble chef's counter overlooking an open kitchen, where a parade of chefs busy themselves tweezing final flourishes into place. It has the poise of an operating theatre, though the mood is softened by plush seating and neat bundles of flowers marking each place.
To open, the team have thought up a rainbow of housemade soju spritzes, covering raspberry, watermelon, strawberry and many more. Deceptively alcoholic kiwi spritz in hand, what follows is a steady procession of clever cooking. An early highlight comes in the form of abalone noodles - essentially reconstituted sea snail - teamed with cuttlefish, a dab of shiso sorbet, and olive oil. It’s gentle, skilled, and fresh as anything.
The same is true of a pearly hunk of turbot, rich and meaty, prepped carefully to leave every surface shimmering and opalescent. It’s accompanied by a traditional Korean fish jus and a beurre blanc, and the two together earn big marks. Armed with a dinky steamed bun, it’s clean plates all round.
There are times, however, when Dosa’s gentle touch leaves gaps to be filled. For instance, while a ginseng poached chicken main offers interest in the form of a glazed and roasted Orkney scallop, it lacks the depth promised by a gochujang chicken sauce. Its counterpart, however, is a belter of a lamb dish, heavy on black garlic and balsamic, served with a moreish sliver of slow-cooked lamb belly.
Dessert offers refreshment: a great heaving bowl of mango, soft cheesecake and mango shaved ice. It arrives with twisted kkwabaegi doughnuts to dunk in a tangy chocolate lime sauce. They aren’t a perfect pairing, but the mango is delicious, all fresh soft slivers and dairy richness, lifted by a few sharp flecks of passionfruit.
Dosa by Akira Back is reverential, and when it clicks, it does so with a quiet, crystalline brilliance. There are buzzier Korean restaurants out there, but few treat their ingredients (or their diners) with this much care.