Restaurants at 10 Heddon Street have a habit of becoming hits. Fallow made its name here, Manteca followed, and now DakaDaka steps into the spotlight. There are only a handful of places in the capital championing Georgian cuisine, but DakaDaka makes a strong case for more of its kind, showcasing the country’s generous hospitality and deeply comforting cooking.
Inside, the room brings a homely warmth: shelves of hand-painted ceramic jugs sit proudly on display, and hand-scrawled blackboards hang above the open kitchen, where a brigade of chefs deftly fold dumplings and char breads over open flames. It’s all dark woods and bold geometric upholstery, with tables packed closely together to make the most of every inch of this prime real estate. Towards the back, a glazed roof lets in the last of the day’s sunlight, while at the front, the room opens entirely onto a greenery-enclosed terrace, the outdoor chatter drifting inside.
We begin with khachapuri, a blistered flatbread that oozes with molten cheese and carries a bold garlicky hit. It’s the perfect accompaniment for a kidney bean hummus, a much richer and completely addictive alternative to the classic chickpea offering that swims in a glossy pool of chilli oil, topped with toasted pumpkin seeds and crispy onions.
The khinkali - plump, hand-folded soup dumplings - are non-negotiable. We pick them up by their thick stalks, drinking out their fragrant broth before devouring the rest. We opt for two options, one filled with Scottish girolles and shiitake, finished with a generous crack of black pepper, the other, stuffed with Iberico pork and aged beef, punched up with chilli. We’d struggle to pick a favourite.
Dish after dish continues to impress. Chicken thighs arrive beautifully charred, balanced with a mirabelle plum sauce laced with dill and chilli, a whole grilled seabass flakes effortlessly beneath two contrasting ajika pastes, one bringing a fresh, herby finish, the other gently smoked with chilli. Even the accompanying pink fir potatoes showered with confit onions and chunks of sea salt are an essential side.
DakaDaka is the sort of restaurant where you could easily while away several hours, sipping Georgian wines and working your way through the exceptional cooking. If this is Georgian food, we've been seriously missing out.