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So named because it was ‘the last coaching inn before Cornwall’, this substantially extended hostelry may be close to Tavistock town centre, but it has the rolling expanses of Dartmoor as a backdrop. Inside, there’s space for drinkers at the bar, although most punters head for the two split-level dining areas, where bare wood floors and monochrome photographs set the tone. A daytime menu satisfies allcomers, taking in everything from sausages and mash or ham, egg and chips to hearty plates of braised ox cheek with horseradish mash, confit duck with roasted chicory or chicken and chestnut mushroom pie. Things move up a notch in the evening, when the line-up might run from venison salame with candied walnuts to dark chocolate delice with cherry sorbet, via poached and roasted quail with buttered spinach and spiced prunes or fillet of Cornish hake with Looe Bay cockles, crème fraîche and baby gem. Beers and wines are also up to the mark.
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