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With its sunny yellow interior full of rough wooden tables and stools, Chez Lindsay looks like a throwback to the 1970s. The menu – with its Breton-based cooking heavily featuring seafood, cream
and galettes – does nothing to dispel the impression. Modern and innovative it may not be, but when it comes to the likes of feuilleté de St Jacques and supreme de volaille à la Normande, or
boudin noir, Lindsay Wotton and the team do a fine job. The Loire-based wine list is an oenophile’s delight, but many find it more fun to stick to the thick mugs of Breton cider. Service is
distinctly French and gives as good as it gets: be nice to the staff and they’ll return the favour.
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