Burro Covent Garden

Sitting pretty in Floral Court, Burro is the first solo restaurant by Trullo chef and co-owner Conor Gadd. The two Italian bistros share much of the same DNA: white tablecloths, glossy pastas, fine wine, but Burro has a flashy new Covent Garden postcode and the panache to match.

We enter through soaring glass doors, where an illuminated kitchen pass anchors the main restaurant - candles flickering and cutlery perfectly poised - and a lavish, trattoria-style bar sits tucked away from the action. Grown-up as it may be, Burro is careful not to lose sight of its old-school origins: the decor is minimal; the staff are charming; and the menu is a no-nonsense voyage from primi to contorni. There’s no attempt to reinvent the wheel here, and the simplicity is refreshing.

A flinty glass of Pecorino and a humble plate of focaccia kick things off nicely. Practice more restraint than we did and save some of that bread for the caponata; slippery peppers and sweet aubergine glisten like a sunset under a generous glug of grassy olive oil. Elsewhere, bite-sized fried artichokes are finished with a blanket of bottarga shavings and a good squidge of lemon, each mouthful more savoury and delicious than the last.

Trullo’s beef ragu has reached icon status in London, and Burro’s new iteration is fast on its heels. After hours of gentle slow-cooking, hearty clusters of duck and porcini ragu are interlaced with silky ribbons of fettuccine. Rustic, understated, with nowhere to hide, the intense depth of flavour speaks for itself. Strozzapreti arrives tumbled in a sauce of tomato and guanciale. Between the fatty pork and chewy twirls of pasta, this dish evokes the sort of guilty pleasure you feel from eating leftover lasagne - comforting, wholesome and full of starchy goodness.

Dessert is where things get playful: funfair-style ricotta doughnuts are nestled on a luxe coffee cream and topped with sugar. On a scale from viral tiramisu drawers to nonna-approved recipes, Burro’s rendition is surprisingly subtle and quietly sophisticated.

Without overcomplicating its offering or chasing trends, Burro delivers honest, straightforward, and genuinely lovable dining. Like Trullo, we expect it’ll remain that way for years to come.

Burro is an Italian restaurant in Floral Court, Covent Garden. The restaurant marks the first solo venture from Conor Gadd, co-owner of much-loved Highbury favourite Trullo.

Burro, which translates to 'butter', will sit in a prime, star-spangled spot formerly home to The Petersham, placing it firmly in the thick of central London’s dining scene. The restaurant will encompass a bar, a main dining room and a terrace, making it an all-day destination that works just as well for a long lunch as it does for dinner and drinks.

The menu leans happily into Italian classics, a style Gadd knows inside out. Fresh pasta will be central, with dishes such as Roman-style fettucine alfredo and tagliatelle with duck and porcini ragu already generating buzz. Starters include fried artichoke with bottarga and chilli, while more indulgent plates range from Dover sole with caviar to vitello al burro - veal finished with, naturally, plenty of butter. Desserts promise a playful edge, with tiramisu bomboloni and almond cake served with butter and a glass of marsala.

There will also be subtle nods to Burro’s historic surroundings, with a handful of dishes inspired by the Covent Garden area woven into the menu. It’s a thoughtful approach that reflects Gadd’s cooking style: rooted in tradition, confident in execution and focused on flavour.

Design-wise, Burro is set to channel the charm of Italian 1950s bistros, with rich-toned mid-century woods, marble accents and statement artworks creating a space that feels stylish and assured. It sounds perfectly pitched for its central London setting.

Gadd’s pedigree only adds to the anticipation. He joined Trullo shortly after its 2010 opening, following training at Ballymaloe Cookery School and a stint at influential wine bar Terroirs, before becoming head chef and later managing director and co-owner.