Dips, flatbreads and veg-forward small plates have become a tale as old as time in the capital, although Bubala was one of the first to interpret this perennially popular brief through an entirely vegetarian lens. So successful were its first two sites in Soho and Spitalfields, that it has opened a third in King’s Cross – the biggest of the lot – and despite being on the far side of Coal Drops Yard, its worth seeking out.
Double-height ceilings and exposed silver pipework could easily make the space feel soulless, but the master designers behind this beautiful dining room have done a fine job at filling it with light and warmth. Natural textures and tones touch every surface, from pale plaster walls to bespoke wooden shelves and terracotta tiled floors. Meanwhile, a flickering wood-fired oven works overtime in the open kitchen, turning out everything from charred cauliflower to hot flatbreads, to menu newcomers like spanakopita borek.
Regardless of what you order, you can expect more of the same generous Middle Eastern-inspired cooking that'll have you contemplating if you really could go veggie. Labneh thicker than emulsion paint arrives topped with a twinkling pool of olive oil and a pile of confit garlic cloves, which are designed to be smooshed, along with that thick yoghurt, onto chunks of hot laffa bread. Baba ghanoush, the way Bubala does it, is blitzed until silky smooth, then topped with crispy curry leaves and glossy, oil-soaked pine nuts.
Many of its dishes are generously rich, and careful ordering is required to avoid impending tahini-induced heartburn. We order more bread, a plate of pickles, some of its golden layered latkes, and a couple of umami-packed oyster mushroom skewers, to balance out other saucier numbers. If you make it thus far, there’s a very nice chocolate cremeux with crunchy cacao nibs, flaky salt and, you guessed it, a dash of olive oil, to finish.
The drinks menu has been given a decent amount of thought, with adventurous natural wines, botanical cocktails and fizzy, fruity boozeless numbers. It's been six years since Bubala originally opened its doors in the capital, yet somehow this restaurant has never felt more relevant. Modern, affordable, often unusual. Long may it live.