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The Joël in question – Joël Antunès, one of the capital’s top chefs of the 90s – may have left his eponymous restaurant in the Park Plaza hotel to run his new joint in Mayfair, but it lives on
(with no plans to change the name, oddly). The luxurious setting – a slightly clubby palette of blood-red & black tones – is a suitable match for the indulgent cooking, witness duck ham with
fig chutney or veal sweetbreads with pommes Maxine & porcini. Descriptions are kept terse, emphasising the natural affinity of ingredients – ‘chilled asparagus soup, burrata, olive oil’, say.
The must-order tournedos Rossini is served with a perfectly seared slab of foie gras & intense truffle sauce, while lobster risotto with courgettes & Parmesan may well be as rich as the
occupiers of the hotel’s penthouse suites. Portions are more generous than expected, as in the raspberry millefeuille with vanilla cream. Service is suitably polished, if a touch impersonal.
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