Blacklock Covent Garden

For most carnivores there’s no greater gift than a bucketload of gravy and Blacklock is the gift that keeps on giving.

Both starters and mains come doused in the good stuff, and in case you’re hungry for more there are various options on the side too. It’s a sort of utopia for meat-lovers. The up-beat vibe lends itself to starting with a cocktail, and if we may be so bold, we’d advise against the mocktails in favour of their far-superior alcohol-spiked cousins.

Things start with an alarmingly paled plate of ‘pre-chop bites’ which are crackers topped with chopped chicken and horseradish, egg and anchovy, and cheese and pickle. While they look like they belong in an exhibition of 80s food, they have an intensity of flavour that brings them bang up to date. A swift reminder about not judging a book by its cover. And anyway, they’re sort of sweet in their nostalgic way.

The pig’s head on toast is a starter that will stay with you long after it’s finished. Wonderfully fatty, slow cooked meat, bright pickled chillies and a whole jug of rich gravy poured over the top ensures no scrap is left behind. Mains bring beautifully cooked steak with that all-important salty crust and slightly less exciting skinny pork chops. Nothing more gravy can’t fix. The beef dripping chips are perfect companions too, as is the smoky charred gem with rich anchovy drippings. Everywhere you look at Blacklock the team has tried to distil and intensify flavour for plates that demand to be scraped clean. It might not be one for plant-based eaters but if you’re going to eat meat, this is how to do it. Everything is carefully sourced and expertly handled, giving the produce its proper dues.

Cosy, wood-panelled walls and low lighting bring a bit of theatre, and the fun staff are a constant throughout to ensure everyone’s part of the party.

Expect steak and chops aplenty at the latest addition to Blacklock’s growing presence in the Capital. Situated in foodie Covent Garden, this latest site is in good company amidst the likes of Cora Pearl, Henrietta Bistro, Oystermen, Frenchie and Gloria. Blacklock Covent Garden is the fourth opening for the group founded by the former Hawksmoor employee turned restaurateur, Gordon Ker. Setting out with his first site in Soho, Ker was determined to bring a high calibre steak restaurant to London without the high prices customarily associated with such an offering. He scoured the country to find the best quality meat he could get his hands on before settling with a Cornish family whose collection of small farms in the southwest breed dry-age native and rare breed animals with a commitment to the highest welfare standards. Whilst Blacklock is predominantly a meat-serving restaurant – it upholds the belief that collectively we should be eating better quality meat, less often.

From the menu diners can choose from a wide selection of beef, lamb and pork cuts, varying in weight and price and served with a tempting selection of extras. The sauce list includes all the classic accompaniments as well as their infamous garlic marrow spread and knock-out chilli Hollandaise. From the sides guests can choose from the likes of beef dripping chips; coal-roasted beets and goat's curd; barbequed baby gems with anchovy dressing; or plain and simple bread and gravy! Hungry visitors are advised to go ‘All In’ with pre-chop bites, and beef, pork and lamb skinny chops piled on a charcoal-grilled flatbread to share between two with a side each for just £22 per person.

Blacklock’s renowned Sunday Roasts are also unmissable for meat-lovers and claim to be ‘almost as good as your mums’. Expect top-quality meat cooked over open coals and English oak served with all the trimmings and a fantastic selection of optional sides to make a bespoke roast dinner that’s just to your liking.

On the drinks list you’ll find a good selection of affordable red and whites on tap or by the glass curated from the team’s travels abroad. Cocktails are also great value.