Bianca's

Bianca’s is a younger, cooler, more casual sister to Michelin-starred Casa Fofo. It’s a tiny wine bar - no more than ten tables. Exposed concrete walls have been left untouched, bistro curtains are slung open, and velvet red bar stools have a touch of old-school Hollywood glamour. It’s effortlessly chic, in a way that feels unmistakeably Hackney.

Casa Fofo chef Adolfo de Cecco brings his Michelin touch to the pans at Bianca’s. But in contrast to his set menu style flagship, Bianca’s welcomes a spontaneous glass of wine and a quick bowl of pasta, as much as going the whole hog.

Wines by the glass are excellent, and we flow seamlessly from an easygoing pet nat to a chilled Tempranillo. There’s a regular rotation of pasta dishes, and a glossy bowl of bottoni is a highlight of the night. Sturdy buttons of pumpkin-filled pasta are cooked not a second too long, before being topped with tangy pickled walnut shards. It’s a simple dish, with no room to hide, and the skill in the kitchen shines through.

Less conventional is a trio of sweet potato tempura, each one swaddled in a sheet of nori. Soft potato is protected by a thin layer of batter, the umami casing contrasting neatly with a film of cherry hot sauce. A balancing act, both in taste and texture, it’s hard to imagine a better way to eat sweet potato.

A sweet, sugared pork doughnut threatens to be gimmicky, but is delicious and masterfully balanced - juicy, herby and with a good spike of pickle. It proves a tough act to follow - a dish of pollock and Cherie red potato feels muted and run-of-the-mill compared to the bolder flavours on the table.

Bianca’s, like Casa Fofo, is at its best when it’s conjuring unconventional delights. Dessert doesn’t hold back either - lemon basil peach chilli froyo is as striking as it sounds. Silky white chocolate is sharp with citrus and spice, and puffed buckwheat provides a sweet biscuity base. It’s like the spicy margarita of desserts, and we won’t say no to that.

With a deft touch, unpretentious vibe and healthy dose of East London cool, Bianca’s occupies the space between fine dining and casual wine bar - less Perello olives and overpriced crisps, more daily-changing menus and dedicated charcuterie rooms.

Following the success of his Michelin-star Casa Fofò, chef Adolfo De Cecco has opened his second restaurant, Bianca’s in Stoke Newington. Named after his daughter, Bianca’s is a neighbourhood wine bar that emulates a traditional Italian osteria, with casual bar snacks and natural wine.

Billed as Casa Fofò’s little sister and located just around the corner, Bianca’s is a relaxed, intimate space with an open kitchen counter and terrace. It even has a dedicated charcuterie room, which offers rotating cuts, such as cured middle white pork collar. With British ingredients sourced from small-scale producers, Bianca’s menu focuses on seasonal combinations that are both fresh and exciting. Dishes include milk bread with duck liver and strawberry grape, pork tortelli with smoked mackerel and, for dessert, hazelnut and shitake mille feuille. There is also an emphasis on sustainability, with techniques like fermentation used to reduce waste.

To wash it down, there’s wine, and plenty of it. The cellar holds around one hundred bottles to choose from, with a variety of low-intervention wines available by the glass. The wine collection has been curated using artisanal producers and, rumour has it, Adolfo has been aging some extra special bottles.

Bianca’s is currently open on evenings and for lunch on Saturdays, with plans to become an all-day venue in the near future. The daytime offering will include freshly baked bread, pastries and coffee. The longer opening hours encourages guests to pop in for a quick snack or stay for a long lunch, and if Casa Fofò’s popularity is anything to go by, Bianca’s is set to become the place to be, morning, noon and night. It is now available to book online for tables of up to four people and via email for larger group enquiries.