Bar Valette

On paper, Bar Valette has all the ingredients of a smash hit. London is head over heels for Spanish bar culture right now, and in two Michelin-starred chef Isaac McHale, the restaurant is backed by one of the most highly regarded chefs in British food. Big names bring big expectations, but can Bar Valette meet them? That's what we're here to find out, on a grey and chilly evening on Kingsland Road.

Let’s start with the positives, of which there are plenty. At the risk of hyperbole, Bar Valette is absolutely beautiful. The wood, whitewash and white tablecloth combo has something of St John about it, made more elegant by tastefully-curated modernist prints on the walls, and a set of beige bistro curtains, which throttle the glaring lights outside to a gentle glow. The lighting is perfect too. In fact, the restaurant is so aesthetically pleasing, it feels slightly out of place on graffiti-strewn Kingsland Road. 

That isn't the only place where Bar Valette feels a bit incongruous. By name, location and understated appearance, one would expect it to be easy-going and somewhat inexpensive, but it is neither of those things, despite the best efforts of amiable, unscripted staff. Mains are all around the £40 mark, with smaller dishes between £15 and £25. Naturally that adds up to a restaurant where two people would struggle to get out for under £200.

Those prices demand sublime cooking, but Bar Valette never quite manages to get there. There are some thoroughly enjoyable bites: a crumbly devilled crab tart with a lovely hint of spice; nicely rendered lamb chops with a spiced mayo; and a rich, hearty ‘Fabada Asturiana’ bean stew with juicy chunks of pork belly and black pudding, though many will feel they could do a capable job recreating it in their own kitchens. The best thing on the menu is a Chantilly-topped chocolate mousse, which has the dappled appearance of a full moon, and a pleasing density and richness to it as we scrape it up with our spoons. Beyond that, there are plenty of acceptable dishes, but not meeting the expectations or price point that Bar Valette has set for itself.

There’s the heart of a good restaurant here, but Bar Valette feels like a restaurant with an identity crisis, trying to be too many things at once. Still, with McHale and a talented team at the helm, we're confident that it'll find its feet with a bit more time. 

Bar Valette is the latest culinary venture by acclaimed Scottish chef Isaac McHale, known for his two-Michelin-starred restaurant The Clove Club. Nestled on Kingsland Road in Shoreditch, Bar Valette occupies the former site of Two Lights, a previous project backed by The Clove Club team.

The restaurant draws inspiration from the informal cooking styles of Spain and the south of France, with a menu designed to be 'considered yet informal.'

The kitchen is led by head chef Erin Jackson Yates, an alumna of The Clove Club, while front-of-house is managed by restaurant manager and sommelier Wilem Powell, who has curated a wine list aimed at catering to both enthusiasts and novices. Expect bottles from the south of France, Spain and beyond, along with an extensive array of sherries.

The menu at Bar Valette features bar snacks such as devilled crab tartlets, grouse sausage rolls, and The Clove Club's signature buttermilk fried chicken with pine. Elsewhere, a selection of small plates features dishes such as raw ceps salad with slow-cooked duck egg, and rabbit leg stuffed with rabbit farce and mushrooms. While main courses are also designed for sharing and include things like pork chops, steaks, grilled trout, and whole lobsters. 

The 40-cover dining room features an open kitchen, paper-topped tables, and bistro-style curtains in keeping with its more casual concept, and is only open for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. 

McHale has emphasised that Bar Valette isn't aiming for Michelin stars. Rather, it's a relaxed venture taking inspiration from southern France and Spain, aimed at providing diners with 'good times', and with a 'superstar' team behind the operation.