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With its velvet armchairs and oil paintings, bookcases and chandeliers, the dining room of this cosy South Ken townhouse hotel feels more like a sitting-room than a restaurant. It’s an eccentrically English setting that doesn’t give a clue that the cooking style is Persian. Classics such as tangy hummus, a freshly-baked bread basket, or chicken and lamb with saffron rice, are done well, although the menu repays a deeper investigation into dishes less frequently seen in London: borani (spinach mixed with yoghurt and herbs), fesenjan (slow-cooked chicken in a walnut and pomegranate sauce), or baghali polo (dill-infused lamb shank with broad beans) are all worth a punt, while many dishes can be adapted for vegetarians. If you’d rather have British food to match the setting, there’s fish & chips, a club sandwich, smoked salmon and afternoon tea.
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