Tardis-like, Baltic’s narrow frontage on noisy Blackfriars Road is a misleading introduction to what lies within. Step inside and you’ll discover an 18th-century coach-builder’s workshop that has been hollowed out and dressed in white –a barn-sized yet utterly elegant space with soaring ceilings, skylights and concrete floors. The dining room is reached through the bar, where inviting cocktails and icy vodkas may encourage you to linger. The menu roams across the Baltic and beyond, jumping borders and delivering a hotchpotch of culinary refugees from pierogi and pelmeni dumplings, spätzle and blinis with various toppings to gutsy winter-warming plates of pork shank with sauerkraut or lighter options such as red snapper in walnut and pomegranate sauce. There’s a generous list of Old World wines, jazz on Sunday evenings and a good-value set menu at £19.50.