Revered as one of London's most renowned dining establishments, frequented by A-list celebrities and royalty, Le Caprice has reopened as Arlington in its original location by the original owner Jeremy King. Tucked behind The Ritz, on a St James’ side street, the former restaurant has been a fixture of the area since the 40s, and since the 80s when King took over the restaurant, it has sated the appetites of London creatives and been a “home from home” for Princess Diana.
King is the man who - along with his former business partner Chris Corbin - founded The Wolseley, The Ivy, and The Delauney. But it is the memory of Le Caprice, the venture that kickstarted his career, that is fundamental to his personal history.
The Arlington has all the magic of a bygone era, complete with the nostalgia befitting its reputation. It retains the monochromatic luxurious Art Deco ambience, has gained a fresh portfolio of David Bailey photos, and the mirrors behind the bar have been reinstated so that the bar dwellers can view the restaurant without craning their necks. After all, it was once graced with the presence not just of Diana, but Cilla Black, and Naomi Campbell too.
The Arlington menu features several British and European classics, including their renowned salmon fishcake with buttered spinach and sorrel sauce, as well as the popular crispy duck and watercress salad. But it’s not all reruns. Guests can expect new dishes, cocktails, and brunch offerings.
But as always, the proof is in the pudding. If a selection of desserts including a tart Tatin with cinnamon ice cream, Scandinavian iced berries with hot white chocolate sauce, and a silky cappuccino creme brulee served in a generous coffee cup isn't proof enough, we don't know what is.