Modern European·
Silver Award

SquareMeal Review of Apicius

Silver Award

A simple modern makeover has freshened up this unassuming, timber-clad, shop-fronted restaurant, which now mixes charming old beams & floorboards with fashionable high-backed dining chairs & white-clothed tables. Booking is essential, but one of the joys of this small-scale operation is its telling mix of unstuffy, friendliness & highly accomplished food. Tim Johnson has worked with the likes of Nico Ladenis & Andrew McLeish (Chapter One, Locksbottom) & his cooking adheres to a classic French blueprint. Simplicity is the key to his refined, unfussy style, with tip-top local & seasonal produce defining his credit crunch-friendly, fixed-price menus – witness dishes such as roast John Dory fillet partnered by Nicola potatoes, oven-roast tomatoes & baby spinach, or classic tarte tatin accompanied by a green apple sorbet & cider cream.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Modern European


23 Stone Street, Tenterden, Kent, TN17 3HE

01580 714666


Opening Times

Weds-Fri & Sun 12N-2pm Tues-Sat 7-9pm


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2 Reviews 

Victoria B

05 April 2019  
Excellent food, menu changes every 10 days, lovely wine, reasonably priced. Former Michelin star restaurant that still delivers Michelin star quality food.

Henry J

17 December 2009  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 4.5
A starter of deep fried cod brandade with a parmesan crisp, rocket salad and aioli was a delicate concoction belaying an experienced hand and palate. The brandade, a posh fishcake, was juicy and meaty; the aioli was good enough to eat a bucketful (not recommended on a first date). The main course, a slow roast shoulder of Kentish pork accompanied by crunchy crackling, creamed potato, Savoy cabbage and caramelised apples, was as delicious as it sounds. The maitre d’, Mrs Johnson, told us that nobody makes mashed potato like her husband. And she was right. By now I was finding it hard to contain my excitement about the dessert. Enter stage left, chocolate and crème fraiche mousse with Bailey’s ice cream and a spiced orange ‘soup’. The nail was hit squarely on the head once again. In the words of the greedy Valentine Warner, “Wow, wow…Wow.” At £29.95 for three courses of this quality, you can’t help feeling that something magical really is at work here. It’s not only the food and the service that surpass all expectations, even the little dining room manages to feel larger than it is, without losing any of its intimacy. Read the full review at The Arbuturian.
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