A five-star hotel overlooking Hyde Park feels like a natural setting for this beloved pastime, and the Royal Lancaster delivers. Created in partnership with the Natural History Museum, its ‘Blooming British’ concept draws inspiration from the region’s flora and fauna, with an ever-evolving menu that shifts with the season.
The tea itself is served in the hotel’s Hyde Cafe, an extension of the main lobby that mirrors the building’s polished aesthetic. The space is calm and elegant, all soft neutrals with its white marble walls and beige banquettes, accented by vases of seasonal flowers and flashes of gold. At times it feels more like a hotel lounge than a destination dining room, but it provides a serene backdrop to while away an afternoon over tea and a glass of fizz.
Tea is, of course, central to the occasion. We opt for one of the bespoke ‘Pollinator’ blends: a fragrant mix of Darjeeling and Chinese black teas infused with rose and marigold petals, finished with organic bee pollen that lends a soft honeyed sweetness. Savouries tick all the classic boxes, providing familiar combinations of smoked salmon with cream cheese, and cucumber with a hefty spread of rich, salted butter. A chicken filling mixes things up with a touch of pollen but feels a tad dry - perhaps focusing too much on theme than execution.
It’s the pastry selection where this offering really comes into its own. Plates of pristinely decorated desserts arrive with a flourish, suspended in a gilded birdcage beside the table. Whilst many afternoon teas tend to lean into the sweetness, the Royal Lancaster offers a lighter more balanced approach, leaning into the herbal notes of its spring menu.
A rhubarb trifle sits encased in a delicate white chocolate cylinder, hiding layers of poached rhubarb beneath bay leaf-infused custard and white chocolate Chantilly. It’s refined and well balanced, allowing the fruit and herbal notes to shine. A vanilla bavarois is a standout. Sculpted into a tiny beehive, it sits atop a maple sponge, offering a tart kick under a rosemary and apple compote. It’s delicate in every sense of the word, and almost too pretty to eat. The finale comes in the form of a violet cheesecake. Bold slow-cooked blueberry compote cuts through the creamy cheesecake filling, all encased beneath a glossy gel coating, and finished off with delicate violet petals.
With its perfectly polished service, and serene setting, the Royal Lancaster offers a charming twist on this British classic.