SquareMeal Review of 21212
Set in a lushly refurbished Victorian townhouse, this one-off venture provides the setting for Michelin-starred Paul Kitching’s forays into gastronomic performance art and leftfield experimentation. The ‘21212’ moniker should really be ‘31313’ as there are now three starter choices, then soup, three mains, then cheese and finally three desserts. Both lunch and dinner can involve the whole shebang, although you can have fewer courses, priced accordingly. Kitching is a “hugely talented” chef who is capable of conjuring up a daily riot of fantastical constructions ranging from scallop ‘pudding’ with barley, onion and sweetcorn, prune and macadamia, pink peppercorns and balsamic to ‘halibut, egg shells’ (a combo involving prawn, cauliflower, walnuts, crab, rice salad and soy). The jokes come thick and fast as the kitchen works its magic – note ‘10CC’ (a dish involving 10 ingredients, all beginning with the letter ‘C’). As expected, desserts also let rip, from ‘ginger-nuts’ (chestnut, cinder toffee, glazed meringue, black berry brûlée and ‘crème stem’) to ‘APPPs’ (described as a ‘rice cream chocy egg’). It’s all about high-wire thrills here, and the whole show is backed by “great service”.