There’s no doubting that the bistro attached to 190 Queens Gate looks handsome with framed pictures galore, an ostentatious chandelier and plain bentwood chairs creating a pleasing overall effect. Similarly, the menu is sprinkled with perky Anglo-European flavours, although some feel the food is “stuck in a 1990s time warp”. Portions are “on the small side”, but readers have found plenty to enjoy – from thick cauliflower velouté with pickled purple cauliflower via roast partridge breast with confit legs, tangy red cabbage and chestnuts to prettily presented desserts including raspberry cheesecake. The hotel’s global wine list is a point of pride, with broad coverage and plenty of fine selections by the glass. You can also depend on polite service and decently priced set deals tailored to curtain-up at the nearby Royal Albert Hall – although the room can seem “dead” at other times.