SquareMeal Review of
Walkers of Whitehall (Cocktail Bar)
Deep underground, Walkers hides its light under a bushel – or, to be precise, under various snugs and parlours of the pub and restaurant upstairs. This samphire and tobacco-toned cellar (complete with metallic barrel-vaulted ceiling) was once a counting house, but it now deals in bankable cocktails. Kegs containing aged Negroni and Manhattan sit on a brown back-bar that has survived from the venue’s Edwardian past. Take a spin on a Bicyclette – a Frenchified version of the classic Campari Spritz, Bicicletta, that replaces Italian vino with Picpoul de Pinet. Alternatively, try rich, smoky Maple Old Fashioned (£8.50), or if you’re feeling adventurous London Grog, a beer, grapefruit and gin draught. Less jolly was a pointless, pulsating Norwegian nu-disco soundtrack that would be better enjoyed by punters at Fabric. To eat, snack on pork and chorizo burgers, ’nduja croquettes with aïoli (£6), or pomegranate molasses-coated chicken wings fired-up with green harissa.