SquareMeal Review of
Now a casual independent wine shop and bar, Victualler occupies the site of a former dockers’ pub, The Three Suns. Evidence of the building’s past is found in the peeling 1960s wallpaper and the 1850s exposed-brick walls. Display cases stock a winning range of organic and bio-dynamic wines to go – or to drink at the island bar. House Pays d’Oc Marsanne (dry and satisfying, with hints of spice and pear) underpins a selection of around three dozen loftier wines by the glass. Highlights include super Slovenian and august Austrian whites, and Majorcan organic red from Es Verger, Els Rojals. South African Cinsault rosé and pudding wines also appeal. Dine informally on seasonal food with a pronounced French accent: bar snacks of charcuterie platters or baba ganoush; daily mains such as fresh pea risotto. A weekend deal, moules marinières and a glass of vino for a tenner, is a steal.