SquareMeal Review of
This rustic-style wine bar, shop and kitchen in one of Tooting’s two indoor markets is the first static site for its owners, enthusiastic oenophiles Laura and Kiki. The pair met while working at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen and started hosting wine evenings – A Grape Night In. As with that pop-up, the focus here is on ‘selling wine that over-delivers for the price paid’. From a concise themed menu (changed monthly to coincide with the arrival of a new guest chef), standouts include prime Puglian Negroamaro (red); a subtle Arbois vin jaune that tastes of spiced pear, ginger and almond; and South African orange wine, Testalonga ‘El Bandito’ Skin Contact. Wines complement inexpensive dishes such as a hot and sour broth of squid, mussels and turnip; leek and taro tart with pear and pickled mushrooms; cheeseboards; and chef’s pudding (rhubarb, goats’ cheese, white chocolate and shiso, say) – served Thursday to Sunday.