SquareMeal Review of
Uli is the second coming of Michael Lim’s modern Asian restaurant featuring the food of the Chinese diaspora – from regional China through Malaysia, Thailand and Singapore. The place originally opened in All Saints Road, but Lim retired three years ago leaving a loyal clientele bereft. Now he’s back, with partner Graham Rebak, and they’ve revamped the operation with a bright new identity and lighter cooking for the clean-eating generation. The joint is already rocking with fashionable locals. Its wide ground-floor space is decorated in Mediterranean colours of white, sand and sky-blue, plus energetic photos of dancers. Outside, a huge terrace stretches across the pavement with decked flooring and a handsome canopy. Food is carefully cooked, well-presented and delicious. Counter the punchy flavours of soft-shell crab in chilli sauce, Szechuan prawns, or dumplings in broth, with silky batons of aubergine in black-bean sauce, or minced pork with spicy green beans. There’s familiar crispy duck with pancakes on the menu, but also Malay lamb curry pimped with grated coconut and galangal. Steamed sea bass with ginger and garlic is expertly dissected at table by nimble waitresses. To drink, choose from an apposite list of wine, beer, saké, and posh coffee and tea.