SquareMeal Review of
Twenty Princes Street
Housed in a lavishly corniced Victorian room with oak floors, high ceilings, black leather upholstery and triple-height sash windows looking out onto some of Edinburgh’s iconic buildings, this
glamorous and sophisticated first-floor restaurant has quickly become the darling of the city’s beautiful people. Billed as a ‘grill and smokehouse’ with much depending on the output of a
centrepiece Josper oven, it offers an eclectic, brasserie-style menu covering ‘warm-up acts’ (aka starters), shellfish and crustacea, ‘headline’ dry-aged Castle Mey steaks, eclectic salads (bulgur
wheat, feta and beetroot, for example) and a roster of punchy, international mains ranging from ox cheek with black-eyed bean and chipotle stew to halibut with chanterelles, dashi broth, citrus
jelly and crisp vermicelli noodles. If the three TV screens showing Laurel & Hardy films become irritating, you can always seek relief in the Juniper cocktail bar across the corridor.