SquareMeal Review of
Tokyo has some 4,000 ramen-ya and London has barely more than a handful but, thanks to Tonkotsu, authentic ramen noodles are having a moment. This pint-sized joint has only a sliver of space on Dean Street to play with, so it has gone for a true Tokyo-meets-Soho experience (cramped surrounds, hard seats, no frills, no bookings and a minimal menu) – although the latter is what the customers really care about. The kitchen takes a few things and does them very well – from assorted takes on ramen involving pork belly, smoked haddock et al
to perky handmade gyoza and a handful of
sides including crunchy chicken karaage. Noodles and beer are happy bedfellows, so the drinks list focuses on hip craft brews and oriental imports – although you can also sip saké, shochu and Japanese whiskey too.