Theo Randall at the InterContinental Park Lane 22

InterContinental Park Lane, 1 Hamilton Place , London, W1J 7QY

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SquareMeal Review of Theo Randall at the InterContinental Park Lane

One of the nicest chefs in London, Theo Randall celebrated a decade at the InterContinental in 2016 with a refurb intended to channel the more relaxed mood of the 2010s, rather than noughties fine dining. Gone are the tablecloths and moody lighting, replaced by an expanded bar area and a lighter colour scheme: it still feels very corporate, although no one is here for the surroundings. Instead, the unaffected charm of Randall’s “superb” cooking is the main attraction: pasta has always been the star, eschewing clichés in favour of fresh ideas such as plump ravioli stuffed with ricotta and cime di rapa, but there’s much more besides. Pan-fried calf’s liver is embellished with cavolo nero and earthy Castelluccio lentils, beef tagliata features a really excellent piece of Longhorn sirloin, while juicy scallops are spiked with chilli, vinegar and anchovies. The Italian wine list is oddly divided by season, although helpful staff are on hand to advise. “Fantastic cocktails” and notable private rooms, too.
 

Special offers

Dinner: 2 courses at £29 and 3 courses at £35 with a glass of prosecco

From a set menu.

From: 11 May 2017

To: 07 January 2018

Max: 6

Maximum of 6 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.

Lunch: 2 courses at £25

From a set menu.

From: 01 November 2017

To: 07 January 2018

Max: 6

Maximum of 6 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.

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8.3

Food & Drink: 8.3

Service: 7.9

Atmosphere: 7.6

Value: 7.8

Food & Drink: 5.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 5.0

Value: 5.0

Paul A. platinum reviewer 01 September 2016

Theo Randall has the happy knack of taking the best ingredients and turning them into relatively simple but very pleasing dishes in the best of the Italian tradition. Add to that a comfortable dining room with decent space between the tables and efficiently friendly staff, an example of their quality being the way they held our starters while we finished our pre-dinner fizz (something that would not have been the case in Greenhouse two evenings later) and you are well on the way to satisfying the desires of even the most demanding diners. The chef’s selection tasting menu was based on the day’s fresh deliveries and the wine pairing sounded good, so that was what we opted for. Authentically straightforward and typically tasty canapés, tomato and marjoram bruschetta and oil soaked foccaccia, set us up perfectly for the delicious antipasto of a pyramid of Devon crab, fennel, dandelion, radicchio, and bottarga, which was a superb match with the shellfish. The primo maintained the high standard, combining the best homemade pasta with a slow-cooked veal stuffing, pancetta and a porcini sauce - a remarkably light textural and flavour combination. The secondo continued the utilisation of the best of British ingredients with Italian counterparts, supremely tender Somerset lamb rack with globe and Jerusalem artichoke, carrot, sweet red and white beetroot, a nod to fennel, turnip and leek, and proper salsa d’erbe with some body, a really lovely dish. Cheese followed, more or less the same selection as on our last visit, Robiola, Taleggio, a goat’s cheese, and Gorgonzola, with pear mustard, but this time elevated to another level by the amazing match-up with four different versions of Vermouth. The beautiful signature Amalfi lemon tart with crème fraîche brought the meal to a satisfyingly successful conclusion. Well done to everybody involved!

Food & Drink: 5.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 5.0

Value: 4.0

Nicola T. bronze reviewer 11 August 2014

I had had Theo Randall on my places to dine at for some time. I finally went on Saturday and had an amazing experience. Firstly Theo was there greeting guests and later on was chatting to guests at their tables. Secondly the food was fantastic, the flavours and textures of the dishes were excellent, the portion sizes were huge! The service was impeccable, not too much attention nor too little. I was so impressed I shall definitely be considering the private dining room for future events!

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 3.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 3.0

London Gourmet platinum reviewer 26 January 2013

Food that never disappoints. In fact one of the best Italian food in town. Think about it as River Cafe (where he was head chef for many years) just without the buzz (and without the wait for getting a reservation …). Only drawback is the location inside the IC hotel which leads to a lack of atmosphere also given the oversized dimension of the restaurant. Try the fabulous lobster spagheti and limousin veal, amongst many other great dishes

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 4.0

Louise A. silver reviewer 23 March 2011

I came here recently for the first time with a friend of mine on a quiet Monday evening. We were greeted by very friendly staff and immediately ushered through to our table. The restaurant has a very nice, modern decor in keeping with the Intercontinental. The food here we later discovered, is delicious and the portions are very generous! Our meal began with some lovely bruschetta and warm foccacia rosemary bread which left me wondering whether I would need a starter at all! However, I erred on the side of caution and went ahead and ordered the pan fried diver scallops on a bed of lentils which were divine! This was followed by the wood roasted monkfish wrapped in prosciutto which again, was very tasty and full of flavour. The wood roasting added a delicious smoky flavour, and I did notice that this is something featured a few times on the menu, so well worth a go in my mind. It also went excellently with the White Burgundy we ordered! My friend ordered the minestrone soup to start which looked, and apparently was, delicious, as was the veal chop which was very generously sized and very tender and juicy. We shared the zucchini fritti on the side which were very tasty but could maybe have done with being a bit hotter. Not having any room left for dessert we settled at finishing the wine and I had a gorgeous liquer coffee. Overall a very good evening was had! It wasn't the resturants busiest evening I'm sure, so the atmosphere was probably quieter than usual but I do believe if you're with good company that really doesn't matter so much. I hope to be returning very soon!

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 4.0

Tony ............. bronze reviewer 15 November 2010

I've read a few hit and miss reviews,,, I have to say I have been here a few times… and the one MISS we did experience was very swiftly resolved. … As with all restaurants that have won awards and have a well known chef, one does have high expectations and in turn it can get very mixed reviews. I have always found the staff courteous… We love the bar area…the atmosphere …the food .and we have always had a good evening there ( even though it is healthily priced ) . As i say…we had one occasion whereby my partner had left the fish dish she had ordered . When asked why, she informed the waiter that she thought that it was slightly over cooked ,,, They couldn't have apologised more , She was offered another fish but we were all ready for our next course . Theo , who is always interactive with his customers , came out and apologised. We said that having ate here before we weren't going to be put off. The meal was struck off the bill… as was the half bottle of desert wine as a token. Which in anyones mind was a nice gesture.I would say that I think the menu could be changed more often..but the food I personally find pleasing. The freshly made pasta… the Veal chop is always good… the risotto has always been cooked to perfection … and we love the mixed platter of deserts. The wine list is adeqaute. We personally like the atmosphere of the place and the location is perfect if one wants to go out afterwards !.. Give it a try .. It;s not the cheapest place out there…but I sure you'll like it …

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 2.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 2.0

Sabrina's Passions platinum reviewer 14 October 2010

I visited Theo Randall a while ago… We arrived in a group of 8 for a late lunch after a meeting, starving and looking forward to dinner we first had to sit by the bar waiting for our table, despite arriving 15 minutes after the booking time. It took another 20 minutes to be seated and once at the table, getting menus took another 15 minutes. Being that my group were largely clients, I discreetly called the waitress over and explained that service has been a tad lacking and that I would appreciate it if they would do their utmost to look after us and be efficient. We waited again to place our orders but once the starters came out, they were lovely. Main courses looked lovely, although my dish arrived as something completely different to what I had ordered and so although the Chef (Theo Randall himself) sent his apologies from the kitchen, I had to rush through my main as by the time it had arrived, most of my guests had already finished their main. I wasn't able to stay for dessert but my clients and colleagues did and they seemed to enjoy the meal overall. I would say that although the food clearly isn't bad, service is sloppy and often neglectful. Nobody likes having to pull someone up on service at the beginning of a meal, but when you are with clients, sometimes that is what you have to do to prevent a molehill from turning into a mountain.

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 3.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 4.0

nelly pride. bronze reviewer 13 October 2010

Last minute booking on a saturday night Warm welcome at reception then led to a horrible part of the restaurant but to be fair at least we got in. Food was simple honest and well executed Wine list as you would expect mainly Italian but lacked flair or imagination. Wine service excellant food service not so good I was given wrong starters and mains.Overall a good night and I would recommend

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 4.0

patrick d. 07 April 2010

We decided to book our meal for the early lunch sitting and go for the set menu, as knowing would be in london , and walking all day, the earlier the better! other reviews saying that the restaurant was busy and understaffed could not apply, for as soon as we entered the two other tables that were finishing eating had soon settled their bills and drifted out, looking very content. The service was impeccable. the main waitress for our table was attentive, friendly and, despite describing fried courgette as healthy french fries, was perfectly professional. tap water was poured for and, the wine that at first seemed expensive but after tasting, very fairly priced, was poured perfectly and politely by a very knowledgeable and passionate young waiter. the food was very good, we were allowed four courses ( £27 for three and one extra for £5) which did take us quite a while and although the booking said we could only have 2 hours, they happily accepted us for longer. starters of cured beef with rocket was a perfect, light start, and a point that the food being wholly italian and attempting to accentuate the rustic friendliness and relaxed aspect of Italy's food, it felt a bit juxtaposed against the interior ( admittedly, the STUNNING interior) of a five star london hotel. This said I was there with my partner to enjoy ourselves and we certainly did, our pasta courses, a seafood ravioli and beef fillet and chianti ravioli, were stunning. the beef rich and somehow creamy, with the seafood, (apparently) delicious, and the inclusion of actual fresh seafood, which sadly seems fairly rare in many other places I have eaten, was wonderful. Mains wise, the salmon fillet I had, accompanied by vegetables seasoned and cooked well was a true treat. a huge portion, unexpected when offered the choice of three courses ( possibly the up-selling of the waitress) however the salmon was light, the skin crispy but delicate and the vegetables had a flavour but just the right amount not to distract from the fish, but to compliment its subtle flavours perfectly. The huge portion of guinea fowl that my partner ate was apparently dry and the well hidden marscapone did not do enough to satisfy the tongues need for moisture, however cooked well and soft enough in parts to enjoy the flavour immensely, even if a sauce could have softened the touch slightly. A beautiful pear and almond tart, and an overly priced cappuccino later resolved in a meal that lived up to and satisfied the expectations that I had prior to the meal. I will, and already have recommended it to people, and maybe I am a sucker for a set menu, but presented with the quality and the portions that we had, I think eating earlier and better is the way forward.

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 1.0

Atmosphere: 2.0

Value: 2.0

Mitzie8cake platinum reviewer 27 November 2009

Having read previous reviews of this establishment, I booked with high hopes of finally finding a worthy hotel restaurant and chose it for a special annual pre Christmas meal. Upon arrival, service was courteous and friendly but within minutes it was clear that this night was not going to be an easy dining experience. The first irritation came as we sat down and I noticed that the bags and coats we'd left to be put on the cloakroom were sitting unattended on a chair in the bar area. Given I'd done something valuable shopping I'd kept my eye on it from the table, for a full five minutes before it was finally put away. Not good I decided. Then came the food, slowly followed by the service, also slowly. It was clear the restaurant was understaffed and overbooked, this was visible with staff flying around and the manager pouring wine. Unfortunately it meant we also had to pour own own wine, ask for the dessert menu twice and then be given the set menu options when we were ordering a la carte. On top of this, food was mediocre with authenticity akin to any Mediterranean style restaurant in any hotel, surprising for a restaurant that had won Italian of the year. With such poor service and an experience that was slowly dwindling down to average in a soul-less space, we refused to pay service (something which I haven't done since my disastrous visit to Gilgamesh some years ago). Thankfully the frank yet courteous manager admitted short staffing was indeed the problem and accepted our point and made a good effort in trying to get us to visit again. But I'll certainly think twice.

Food & Drink: 5.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 5.0

Sarah H. 04 November 2009

This must be the best value meal in London. The set menu is varied and interesting with a wide range of options including a vegetarian one in each category. We had delicious first courses and thoroughly enjoyed very generous portions of wood pigeon as a main course. The portions were so generous we were unable to cope with a dessert even though they sounded very tempting. The service was informal but very polite and attentive. The only criticism, which is more of a minor detraction than a hindrance was that the restaurant still has the feel of a corporate hotel servicing hotel guests rather than a top class Mayfair restaurant which is what it really is.

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The private dining room at Theo Randall can seat 26 people (50 standing), while larger parties of up to 55 can be accommodated in a semi-private room; the two rooms can be combined to host parties for up to 80 (130 standing). It is also possible to hire the whole restaurant (200 seated; 250 standing).

Private Dining Room
Capacity: 24
Special offers

Dinner: 2 courses at £29 and 3 courses at £35 with a glass of prosecco

From: 11 May 2017

To: 07 January 2018

Max: 6

Maximum of 6 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.

Lunch: 2 courses at £25

From: 01 November 2017

To: 07 January 2018

Max: 6

Maximum of 6 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.

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