SquareMeal Review of
The Walnut Tree
“A massive treat every time we go!” exclaims a long-time supporter of this reinvigorated Welsh icon; others simply confirm that it’s a truly special restaurant. We’re also fans of chef/patron Shaun Hill, and reckon he deserves a round of applause for putting The Walnut Tree back on the Michelin-starred map in his “perfect understated manner”. This place works to a magic formula, serving keenly priced, intelligent food in refreshingly unfussy surroundings (beams, local artwork, rustic furnishings etc). There are “no great twiddles or knobs – just good straightforward food and service”, notes another fan. Cracking set lunches are a bargain, while the equally good-value carte could yield anything from foie gras terrine with crispy pear and damson cheese to veal kidneys with streaky bacon and cassis sauce or herb-crusted cod with spinach gnocchi. Cleverly realised British and European flavours also collide on the pudding list – think pear upside-down cake with Calvados coffee sauce. The location in the foothills of the Black Mountains is glorious and the whole place regularly resounds with chat and laughter – there’s even bookable cottage accommodation nearby.