SquareMeal Review of
Coffered concrete ceilings meet mismatched church-hall furnishings at The Vintry, a big, boisterous Fuller’s pub tucked into the maze of alleyways between Cannon Street and Bank. It may be big,
but space is at a premium and on fine nights the good-natured crowd often takes over the traffic-free precincts of St Mary Abchurch. Fuller’s ales are lined up on the pumps, and there’s a
100-bin, French-led wine list for those who prefer grape to grain. An open kitchen is the heart and soul of the enterprise, cooking up 28-day-aged Hereford and Ayrshire steaks, plates of wild
duck with elderberries, black cabbage and roast swede, and reputedly ‘the best fish and chips in the City’. Oysters, sharing plates and evening nibbles provide some lighter alternatives.
Former One Page Wine List of the Year
Printed on very obviously recycled paper, The Vintry’s authentic credentials will go down well with any hipsters who’ve biked over from nearby Shoreditch. The list is split into two bits. There’s a short, seasonally changing list that is a miracle of condensation and legibility – someone, somewhere, has a very good eye for design… And it is backed up by a ‘full list’ jammed with good wines under £50 and show-off stuff for the City boys. More accessible, multi-faceted lists like this and Britain would be a better place…