SquareMeal Review of
The Three Cranes
Now a boutique hotel, dining room and offbeat craft-beer bar with a soundtrack of cool jazz, this tall townhouse was once a sweet wee boozer called The Hatchet. Its new austere wood panels, metallic ceiling, art deco fittings, curved bar and high breakfast tables suggest a 1930s buffet car – and they sit awkwardly with the original leaded-glass frontage in the narrow ground-floor saloon. The bar’s mini beer wall has Beavertown and Bitburger on tap; the wine list is largely European and starts at £25 (for Pays d’Oc Syrah or Sauvignon Blanc); and classic cocktails include Jack Rose, Dark & Stormy and White Negroni (with Lillet Blanc), all at £9.50. Jumbo pork pies are bar snack bliss, but otherwise head for the cosier upstairs dining room (all red leather booths and banquettes) and order comfort food off a blackboard: the likes of sausages, mash and red wine gravy (£11.50).