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The brick walls and steel girders of what was once the Victorian Friern Manor Dairy make a handsome frame for this large, airy pub with its agreeable nooks and crannies, Chesterfields and
chandeliers. You can graze on Spanish meats and cheeses, or take a table for something more substantial. Starters are a ‘modern Euro by numbers’ selection (Parma ham and melon salad; pan-fried
squid with chorizo, chickpeas and peppers), mains mean solid gastropub fare (cider-braised pork belly; sweet potato and chickpea tagine with couscous) and desserts range from fun to fancy
(ice-cream sundae, pineapple carpaccio). The choice of ales is decent, and you can often find good wine among the short list of bin ends. There have been complaints that staff sometimes lack both
speed and manners, but they were pleasant and professional on our visit.
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