SquareMeal Review of
The Little Fish Market
The Little Fish Market is proof positive that good things really do come in small packages. Hidden down a nondescript Hove side street, this teeny but terrific fish restaurant is owned by the fittingly named Duncan Ray – a former chef from The Fat Duck, who creates seriously refined food in a tiny basement kitchen. The menu is a constantly evolving affair dictated by the catch from the local boats, but expect exquisitely presented dishes packed with flavour: lobster risotto with orange and basil, for instance, followed by turbot with cockles, clams and bouillabaisse sauce or sea bream with baby gem, tomato and sea herbs. Desserts are a highlight, witness strawberries ‘n’ cream or poached pear with gingerbread ice cream. At £55 for five courses, this isn’t a cheap night out by Brighton standards, but the service (from just one waiter) is superb and the concise wine list is a good match for the fish. Book early, especially for weekends: tables often get snapped up weeks in advance.