SquareMeal Review of
The Little Fish Market
The Little Fish Market is proof positive that good things really do come in small packages. Hidden down a nondescript Hove side street, this teeny but terrific fish restaurant is owned by the fittingly named Duncan Ray – a former chef from The Fat Duck, who creates seriously refined food in a tiny basement kitchen, while his sidekick Rob takes care of FOH “in the best possible way”. The fixed-price tasting menu is a constantly evolving affair dictated by the catch from the local boats, although diners can expect “magnificent” dishes packed with flavour: red mullet with rosemary, for instance, followed by black bream with wild garlic and pickled mushrooms or halibut with asparagus and caviar. Desserts are a highlight, witness chocolate délice or a combo of salted caramel, banana and vanilla. At £65 for five courses, this isn’t a cheap night out by Brighton standards, but the service (from just one waiter) is superb and the concise wine list is a good match for the fish. Book early, especially for weekends: tables often get snapped up weeks in advance.
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