SquareMeal Review of
The Lady Mildmay
Taking the place of The Dissenting Academy, The Lady Mildmay is a new stablemate to The Tufnell Park Tavern. Inside it’s all natural-wood recycled furniture, leather Chesterfields, oxblood paint jobs, working fires and flea-market finds. The new owners describe their venture as a ‘pub with good food, not a restaurant in a pub’. This translates as draught Sambrook’s, Hammerton and Twickenham ales, and food ordered at the bar. Backed by European wines from £20 (including top-of-the-bill Chablis at £35), supper might start with chicken liver and orange salad; anchovy, rosemary and onion tart; or nettle risotto with poached egg and girolle mushrooms, before mains of roasted guinea fowl with blood-orange and barley salad; pink trout with wild garlic mash, capers and wilted greens; or lentil shepherd’s pie. Ices and cheesecakes are also possibilities at this family-friendly affair where set lunches start at just £6.