SquareMeal Review of
Taking over what was formerly The Fine Line, this new duplex craft-beer bar and kitchen is the latest venture from Chiswick brewers Fuller’s. Inside, its pine-clad, folksy, 1950s cod-American decor isn’t dissimilar to that of various other behemoth City bars. Here, though, you’ll get Fuller’s draught beers: served in both bars and including Frontier lager, Wild River pale ale and Black Cab stout. There’s also a global selection of brews that visits Mexico (Day Of the Dead), Norway (Lervig Lucky Jack), Hawaii (Kona) and Oz (Little Creatures). Cocktails (£8.50) include Affogato Martini and Hair of the Hog (a bacon-infused spicy Bloody Mary manqué). Mid-point on the wine list (from £18.50 to £45) are Saint-Véran white Burgundy and Bekaa Valley Lebanese red. Food covers anything from quinoa, feta and squash fritters with Yemeni hot sauce, to rosemary-crumbed veal meatballs in a tomato sauce, via shellfish risotto (£8), salads and sticky puds.