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‘Not your average gastropub’ says the tagline, and for once the hype is fully justified. This Fulham boozer has been a pack leader for many years, staking its claim with urbane ingredients-led cooking and handsome gentrified interiors (bare-boarded floors, chunky wood furniture, mirrors and monochrome photos on pastel walls), all overseen by starry backers (it’s co-owned by Brett Graham of The Ledbury). The Harwood Arms kitchen specialises in remarkably seasonal British victuals – including bags of furred and feathered game (roast Berkshire deer with baked carrot, pickled walnuts and juniper, for example). Other highlights from the daily fixed-price menu might range from the famous crab muffins or new season’s beetroots with smoked eel, pumpernickel and purple rocket to calendar-tuned desserts such as blackberry and bay-leaf trifle with brown sugar meringues or cherries with vanilla cream and a brandy snap. It may tout a Michelin star, but The Harwood Arms still trades as a dyed-in-the-wool watering hole, serving pints of real ale, venison Scotch eggs and cauliflower croquettes to the drinkers, and making a big splash with its sell-out Sunday roasts – although the serious wine list is several notches above the pub norm.
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StreetSmart - London restaurants
Best restaurants in Fulham
Best London gastropubs
SquareMeal 3 Stars
Fulham Broadway Station 200m
Fulham Broadway Tube Station 332m
Dance Attic 191m
Vue Cinema Fulham Broadway 286m
Tues-Sun 12N-3pm (Sun -4pm) Mon-Sat 6.30-9.30pm Sun 7-9pm
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 5
The Harwood Arms embodies what is great about “pub fine dining”, as this is way beyond a “gastro pub” in everything but the premises. Not that they are a put-off, but do not expect fine dining enclosure tucked away at the rear of the pub. What you see is what you get and it is a newly refurbished and pleasant rather small pub. The only nod is an elaborate skylight which transforms the space. The focus on the food is what makes this place special. The moment you try one of their house special scotch eggs as a pre-starter you will see what I mean. The finesse and quality is refutable and very enjoyable. It is very much British modern cooking not too different from what Mr Atherton would advocate. One criticism is the wine list which is a bit confusing and lacks a dash of “direction and purpose”, however, the beers are well chosen and combine well with the haute-cuisine-cum-comfort-food style of the cooking. Thumbs up for keeping it very authentic and producing a perfect example of where the British culinary revolution stands today. A great place to take out-of-town visitors too.
Food + drink: 4
My friend wanted to meet for a casual lunch near Fulham Broadway and recommended we meet at The Harwood Arms. Lunch in a pub with a Michelin star? This is my kind of “casual”. The pub itself is very unstarry: generic wooden tables, generic Farrow & Ball elephant's breath-painted wooden panelling, generic prints on the walls. I like that it hasn't gone all posh pub paying lip service to casual but then stuffing the place with linen tablecloths and “art”. Service is appropriately relaxed with patient, friendly, smartly casual attired waiters; no retro pinnies here. In fact it is quite difficult to tell the waiters from the punters and at one point we ask one poor gentleman for a coffee before he sits down with his friends at the next door table. Embarrassing. There's a tempting, good value set menu on offer with a venison starter and pork main for £20 which I would have jumped at if it weren't for the fact we have been eating our way through half a pig in our freezer (don't ask) and the thought of more pork makes me feel ill. So instead we went a la carte and had a fantastic meal of which the outstanding memory for me was an unusual salmon starter: thickish slices of smoked fish, still gelatinously transparent, a beautiful brown-orange, with a wonderful treacle-y flavour. On the plate everything looks more Michelin-worthy: portions aren't huge (but I didn't think they were disappointing and I was certainly full at the end of 2 courses) and there are the usual swirls of sauces and garnishes on the side, although, like the decor, nothing is showy. The bill comes at £45, which given we stuck drinkswise to elderflower cordial and coffee, is slightly starry for lunch but money well spent. I can't think of any other places in London where you can enjoy Michelin starred food in such an unpretentious venue.
Rightfully so this place deserves his michelin star, as the first and only in London. Given its a pub (which can easily get forgotten given the renowned quality of its food) and the food is great, you end up with a fantastic combination – a very relaxed and easy (ie not posh) place to enjoy some high quality food (and wine). The place has a simple, rustic charme (wooden chairs and tables) with very friendly and attentive staff. The menu is short and that's good as it offers fresh and seasonal food with a focus on local british sourced produce (game etc). The wine list reminds you what this place is as it contains an impressive offering of high quality wine matching its michelin star food offering.
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