The Grill at The Dorchester 1

The Dorchester, 53 Park Lane , London, W1K 1QA

  • The Grill at The Dorchester London Restaurant Mayfair Oxford Street French
  • The Grill at The Dorchester London restaurant
  • The Grill at The Dorchester London restaurant
  • The Grill at The Dorchester London restaurant
  • The Grill at The Dorchester London restaurant

SquareMeal Review of The Grill at The Dorchester

The Grill opened between the wars and has seen plenty of glamour, but its 2014 refurb delivered a transformation that regulars continue to relish. Between its parquet floors and striking Murano chandelier, the dining room sits just the right side of staid. The signature dish of blue lobster chowder with mushrooms and chives is classily realised, while mains run from suckling pig with butternut squash, sweetcorn and lemon to steamed cod with shellfish, braised fennel and Bellota ham – although rather pedestrian meat-free offerings such as mushroom risotto might leave vegetarians feeling unloved. For pudding, a clutch of soufflés in rich, dark flavours – hazelnut, coffee or rum, perhaps – show off what a well-resourced kitchen can do. Out front, “absolutely amazing” staff specialise in offering “seven-star treatment”, with matching wines from a big-hitting list that matches expectations.

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The Grill at The Dorchester is recommended for

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Nearby Tube/Rail Stations

Hyde Park Corner Tube Station 670m

Green Park Tube Station 687m

Address

Address: The Dorchester, 53 Park Lane , London W1K 1QA

Area: Mayfair Oxford Street

Opening times

Mon-Sun 7-10.30am 12N-2.30pm (Sun -4pm) 5.30-10.30pm

Nearby Landmarks

The Dorchester Hotel 25m

Curzon Mayfair Cinema 293m

Details

Telephone: 020 7629 8888

Website:

Cuisine: British

7.8

Food & Drink: 7.9

Service: 8.8

Atmosphere: 7.1

Value: 6.8

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 3.0

Jeanpaul C. bronze reviewer 19 October 2016

I dine at “the grill at the Dorchester” with my wife and we ordered a dinner set at The Grill at the Dorchester for two course £58 (£29 – for each) I found the whole meal to be in good flavors and it was good value for money for me. I like what they offered although I was expecting more from haddock, if it were a little more then, it is what I would have enjoy in my whole meal. A tasteful two person dinner meal with a main course (Seared Cos with -haddock with Caponata- and Mussel) for me and (roasted pork belly with potatoes onion and lettuce) for my wife and deserts. CONTINUE READING: http://dinewithjp.com/the-grill-at-the-dorchester/

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 2.0

Toby N. gold reviewer 05 January 2015

I haven’t been to the Dorchester Grill since the tartan days, and I only managed to go once during that period as the décor was sufficient to induce a migraine. So it was a relief to find that the new refurbishment was a rather more sober and fitting style, though it does feel curiously old fashioned and like its been in place for years. Its not one of those places I’d normally go, but was a very last minute booking for the Friday before Christmas as it was one of the few restaurants in Mayfair with any availability for a reunion dinner with an old friend. Service is fine with no real issues once you get through the door; however the staff outside seem considerably less effective and clued up as I stood in a sizeable queue as a set of about 4 disorganised people struggled to find reservations, take coats and bags etc. That’s the sort of thing you’d expect to be slick in somewhere like this and didn’t get the evening off to the best of starts. The atmosphere wasn’t as stuffy and old school as I expected; there was some background music, which thankfully wasn’t some hideous soft jazz combo (I’m always reminded of the Fast Show when I think of that) and there were even family groups with children. But it still does feel impersonal and lacking a certain something. Food is expensive, but not as costly as I expected it would be. It’s all a bit posh nursery food though, without any real innovation. We shared rib of beef, which was fine, though no where near as good as you’d get in Pollen Street Social, or, somewhat awkwardly, across the road at Cut, which is owned by the same Dorchester group. Side dishes were deeply unimaginative and having settled on potato puree (mash to you and me) and seasonal vegetables (over cooked and too soft) I was left wishing we’d made alternative choices. Dessert was pistachio soufflé, and again if you want that you’d be better going to Koffmans. Wine is generally priced at the frightening end of the scale; we ended up drinking Rully, which at around £80 was definitely one of the cheapest options on the menu, though other drinks like champagne or vodka are no more expensive than the normal Mayfair mark-up. We ended up with a bill of £325 for 2, all be it that drink was quite a large share of that. Overall it was a bit of a disappointment and cannot justify the prices. Particularly as there are so many better and more imaginative options within a short radius. Not sure I’ll hurry back.

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 2.0

Value: 2.0

Bob B. bronze reviewer 17 November 2014

Gone are the days of the glamour, the refinement, the elegant clientele. The wealth remains, but the class has long since dissipated. The Coupe de Champagne struggled to justify itself against the backdrop of barking Australasians and a carpet littered with ghastly ‘wheelie bags’-the unnecessarily oversized briefcase of the modern era. ‘C’ and I had arrived a little early, a consequence of our giddy excitement for the opening night of the Dorchester’s new Grill room, and found ourselves grumbling over the drunken hoards like a pair of old farts, whilst labouring to enjoy the crisp mousse of a Laurent Perrier. From afar, we looked upon the Grill’s ornate entrance as the staff organised themselves with the nervous excitement of a West-End cast before opening night. With great eager, all attempted to busy themselves and look official, desperately trying to find themselves a role amongst the conservative over-staffing of a restaurant launch. As we neared the desk, and were spotted by the staff, it was if a switch clicked, and in a moment they snapped into gear offering up to us all the welcoming niceties of a choreographed script. To our every whim, everyone was clamouring to attend, but it was the tall dark-featured Frenchman that pressed himself foremost and won the chance to show C and I to our table. Our early reservation had signalled kick-off. Our waiter would be the kind-faced Basque, watched over hawkishly by the Maître D’ with a look of uncompromising expectation. We had a nice table, I wasn’t sure if we would be assigned a dud given our lowly status, but all seemed well as Tom Aikens and his merry ensemble were seated adjacent. After being welcomed by a beautiful salmon rillete, C & I opted for the lobster chowder and Lemon sole goujons to start. The chowder was fantastic, the goujons a little bland. To follow, we shared the entrecote given that we wanted a ‘grill’ rather than Michelin restaurant experience. The meat displayed the perfect amount of tenderising fat so synonymous with the Angus breed. The only murmur from our table was that the meat should have been allowed to rest for a moment longer as the blood seeped onto our plate, but given we ordered rare and didn’t want a cold slab of meat – it was understandable. Reminiscent of the Grill of yester year, our rib arrived, and was hence carved on a trolley – a well-received feature of continuity between the restaurants of new and old. For dessert, we both opted for a Soufflé – and although the chocolate lacked in flavour, the pistachio and caramel was superb. We might have found room for another. As the curtains came down on the dinner, we reflected on what we had experienced. The plates were accomplished – the Chef here is certainly talented – of that there is no doubt. Indeed, Jocelyn Herland was overseeing the kitchen (Head Chef of Alain Ducasse’s namesake restaurant across the hall) so a poor dinner was near on impossible. However, the lingering consideration we left with was whether the Dorchester’s new Grill room is a Grill at all, or rather another permutation of a top level restaurant. The bill came to nigh on three hundred of the Queen’s finest pounds and we certainly hadn’t boozed copiously. The bill made us question whether we might as well have eaten amongst the glittering Michelin stars of the hotel’s main restaurant. Although in the same room as the old Grill, it is completely reimagined. A question a diner must ask is whether this restaurant has found a separate identity from the Hotel’s other offering. The space endures, but what fills it is quite different.

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 3.0

Owen B. bronze reviewer 27 August 2013

The Grill is unlike any restaurant I've been to with bizarre Scottish tartan and murals of men in kilts, it was like eating in a plush Scottish shortbread tin, thankfully though they were playing soft jazz and not bagpipes. I doubt there are even places on the Royal Mile with this much tartan. Upon walking in there is a hushed atmosphere such is the level of decorum and slightly older clientele. So onto the food. We went for the tasting menu, but realistically it was just a chosen set of the best dishes from the á la carte menu. To start we were brought out an array of bread rolls to share that were baked in-house. Sourdough, rosemary and olive oil, an aniseed flavoured one amoung the most unusal. Taking things up a level though was olive butter, brown butter and most intriguing charcoal butter, a thick tar black spread that I'm thankful I didn't get anywhere near my shirt. It was magnificent though, adding a unexpected dimension to the butter without being grainy and bitty. The amuse bouche was also very high standard, and not a mere morsel as you normally get in places like this with slithers of mullet, green beans, radish and and asparagus puree. The menu is very well set out for the seasons and as such the fresh flavours really jump off the plate. For starter was a chilled pea soup, with dried yogurt and mint, with a pea moose. It was a bland soup and without heat or much seasoning didn't really have much to bring it alive. The tuile however was great with delicate placement of dried yogurt and mint on top of the soup bowl, striking textures and sharp flavours really brought to life in the mouth The fish dish was wild sea bass with beans, panchetta and tarragon with an oyster and a light apple foam. The oyster was sat on a salt jelly for decorative purposes, know one told me, I thought it was part of the dish. The sea bass although small was lovely, clearly cooked sous vide, fantastic texture and very crispy skin, perfection he main main dish was spring lamb (shoulder, loin, belly, I'm going to guess) with a pea puree, morels, asparagus and potato risotto, continuing on with the vegetables in season. The lamb shoulder came with a crust of mint on the top and was beautifully tender They left it to the end for a bit of theatre with the dessert, a large sphere of hazelnut chocolate that broke open when tapped to revel a liquid chocolate interior, like a posh kinder surprise. The chocolate covered popping candy sprinkled on top of the ice cream brought even more 'OOoo's round the table. It's worth reiterating how professional the service was, I've not experienced this high standard before, but yet the waiters were also friendly and engaging offering insight into the dishes and drinks. While it did not really push the culinary boundaries, it was very high standard of classical cooking with quality seasonal british ingredients. I'm told they have a grouse in Autumn, that sounds fabulous, and goes even more with the Scottish theme!

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 4.0

OrientalGourmand bronze reviewer 20 May 2013

Food was innovative yet authentic and world-class quality, service was warm-hearted and attentive, atmosphere was also great. We like the current Scotland-inspired atmosphere. I heard a rumour that the restaurant might be refurbished into a different theme / setting and it would be a great shame to lose this gem of Park Lane to something that is new but similar to other new restaurants. I would say it would be perfect if they decided to keep the atmosphere as it is!

Food & Drink: 5.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 5.0

Value: 5.0

Heather B. 10 December 2012

I had friends visiting from Scotland to help me celelbrate St Andrew's Day and wanted to treat them to something nice and this didn't disappoint. Although we only ordered from the pre-theatre 2 course + champagne offer, we still received amouse bouche and palatte cleansersand petite fours included in the offer. This made us feel very special and valued. The staff were super friendly, discreet and helped make the whole experience pleasurable. The decor, although being very Scottish, is grand and the silverware helps to create the feeling of grandeur. Would definely visit The Grill again and most definitely visit again.

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 4.0

GH platinum reviewer 07 October 2011

Had Sunday lunch. Everything was lovely, wonderful service, quite generous portions.

Food & Drink: 2.0

Service: 3.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 2.0

Steve M. bronze reviewer 02 November 2008

I was entertaining a friend and his wife from India, who were visiting England for the first time. I chose to go to the Dorchester because it represented what I hoped would be a great example of a classic British restaurant, as opposed to many of our ‘top’ restaurants that are French or Italian inspired. Both of my guests were vegetarians. However, the Grill Room web-site claimed that they catered specifically for vegetarians and I was pleased to download a sample vegetarian menu to review. This looked great and it had lot's of choice. Making sure that I emphasised that two of my party of six were vegetarians on making (and re-confirming) the booking, I was confident of a great evening. You know what is coming next, don't you!! The amuse bouche was made of chicken and there was no alternative offered. The only starter suitable for them was a cheese pasta. Well, not too bad, but disappointing that there was no choice. For the main meal, again there was only one suitable plate on offer. Guess what! Pasta … with a cheese sauce. My guests were of course gallant and polite, but I was deeply embarrassed. The waiters were seemingly unconcerned, and the ‘maitre de’ unable or unwilling to push the kitchen to be more creative for us. How a top hotel can fail in this way is really inexcusable. For the rest of the party the food was acceptable, but expensive. I shall not be returning!

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 4.0

Chris70 gold reviewer 18 September 2008

The interior designer must have been told Robbie Burns not Aiden Byrne when they came up with the interior which is more befitting the Braveheart set than a restaurant. That said though, the food was exemplary, the service friendly and efficient, won’t be long before he get a Michelin star again.