SquareMeal Review of
The Fumoir at Claridge's
The more we revisit Claridge’s, the more we adore the poised, polished perfection of its main bar and the 1920s glitz of Le Fumoir – an art-deco, Lalique-mirrored gem that's as swoony as Rita Hayworth in the movie Gilda. Class marques such as Gosset, Henriot, Bruno Paillard and David Léclapart appear on a Champagne list whose four-figure divas are out to tempt: Krug, Dom Pérignon and Jacques Selosse '95 (a snip at £2,100) are there for the taking, although mouth-wateringly moussant Deutz Brut NV suits us fine at £85. Meanwhile, killer cocktails such as Some Apples Get Eaten (a mix of Cognac, apple, sage and teapot bitters) are fit for the royals when they drop in with A-list friends. Nibbles are equally regal too – think caviar, oysters, lobster tempura, asparagus risotto, macaroons and warm sugar doughnuts with apricot sauce. Need we continue?