SquareMeal Review of
The Donkey Sanctuary at The White Horse
Sister to The Montpelier in nearby Choumert Road, this mock-Tudor 1930s pub seems like something of a period piece with its sober wood-panelled interior and pool and darts room. Draught ales from Gipsy Hill, Sambrook’s and Beavertown attract the punters – as does decent modern pub food, where root-vegetable fattoush with aïoli or lamb chops with celeriac gratin could be followed by apple crumble. The White Horse’s latest addition is a somewhat lugubrious, pot-plant festooned former function room recast as a cocktail lounge: The Donkey Sanctuary (open Thursday to Sunday). Enter here and saddle up for Chris Lawes’ (late of Peckham Springs) well-dressed shakes and stirs: the likes of White Lady; Penicillin (complete with syringe); and Bubble Bac (a twisted Prosecco Twinkle made with Kümmel-esque herbal liqueur Escubac, fino sherry, vanilla and grapefruit, £8). The signature tipple, Donkey Punch (with pineapple, lime and orange), gets its kick from two thoroughbred rums.