SquareMeal Review of
The Commercial Herne Hill
Opposite the train station on newly pedestrianised Railton Road, this recently rebooted Mitchells & Butlers’ boozer is a local magnet of some charm. The Commercial, originally a hotel, dates back to the 1870s and features a handsome timeworn bar. Its two cluttered saloons, the lighter brighter extension and a sun-trap patio to the rear are invariably busy at peak times. Order ales from Adnams and Camden, or Kozel, a Bohemian Pilsner among a range of punchy imports. Equally popular are the dozen modestly priced wines by the glass (juicy Sangiovese, a satisfying sip), cocktails and Bulldog G&Ts. The kitchen covers everything from breakfast-time kedgeree or eggs Benedict, via salt-beef Reuben sandwiches with sauerkraut, to lunch and supper-time fail-safes such as mushroom risotto, upmarket bangers & mash, or flat-iron steak, followed by the likes of Black Forest mess. Outside, pavement tables lure yet more thirsty commuters to take a Commercial break.