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This new addition to the ETM family (The Cadogan Arms, The Botanist Sloane Square, et al) is already thriving. In addition to a dominating central bar – fed by gleaming Meantime lager tanks – it is nourished by underground roots where the basement Soda Room resides: a plush nightclub playing beats echoed in the street-level restaurant. Sepia tones and dimmed spotlights define the decor, along with taxidermy ranging from pressed butterflies to a flapping swan. The menu incorporates a sturdy selection of European standards, alongside Billingsgate market’s daily catch and various steaks. Our starter of English asparagus (proudly touted as the season’s first) with pecorino was an appealingly light bite, while an Essex ham hock pie – classically presented with a glazed top – arrived bursting with meat. Prices display the typical City premium, but portions are generous, and the international wine list includes good-value flights. A dependable City workhorse of decent quality.
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