SquareMeal Review of
The Atholl at the Howard Hotel
This discreet Georgian hotel changed hands back in 2010 (it’s now part of the Edinburgh Collection), but that hasn’t changed the Atholl’s status as one of the city’s most romantic places to eat.
Originally a private dining room for guests staying at the hotel, it’s a tiny space with a maximum of 14 covers, but there’s plenty to applaud on the food front – even if the elegant period decor
doesn’t have much immediate wow factor. The kitchen mixes Scottish and French themes, as in seared Mallaig scallops with black pudding, pea purée and coconut dressing or seared Rannoch venison with
sweet-and-sour cabbage and port jus. To conclude, lemon and lime tart with mascarpone cream offers unfussy satisfaction. A tasting menu is available if you book in advance. Prices are fair, and the
wine list has plenty of bottles at non-scary prices.