SquareMeal Review of
Temper Soho opened to rave reviews in 2016, so we’re not surprised that BBQ-loving chef Neil Rankin has produced a sibling site in City development Angel Court. Next door to Coya, this much-larger Temper sticks to the meaty formula, but swaps out Soho’s Mexican streak for a range of global curries. The cavernous space can feel lacking in atmosphere, but young staff do their best to keep things upbeat, as does a menu peppered with playful elements, from Irn Bru on the drinks list to the crushed Monster Munch in Temper’s take on Bombay mix, and the foam bananas which top the must-order banana-rama-drama dessert (which also comes with choc-chip ice cream and lashings of caramel sauce). Considering most restaurants charge extra for sides, it’s worth noting that the curries at Temper come with buttery paratha, spicy fried potatoes, and yoghurt and tamarind sauce all included. Our pick of smoked duck masala was a mild and creamy delight, but spice is here in the likes of a lamb, scotch bonnet and black pepper stew. We’d also recommend crisp pakora stuffed with squid and samphire, as well as a perfectly-balanced salt and pepper crab. The wide-ranging selection of gins will entice booze hounds, but there are also soft options including a tart apple and grapefruit spritz. A pop soundtrack adds to Temper’s appeal, but we’ll have to wait and see whether Rankin can fill such a large venue every night of the week.