Temper 22

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Squaremeal Review of Temper ?

This buzzing bonfire of a restaurant is the first solo venture from BBQ-obsessed Neil Rankin, who co-founded Smokehouse and worked at Pitt Cue Co (now Little Pitt) back in the day. Temper is dedicated to the art and craft of cooking meat: below the small, ground-floor taco bar lies an expansive room featuring a theatrical open kitchen with a wood-fired grill and clay oven – bag one of the counter stools for a ringside seat. The name refers to Rankin’s commitment to tempering his meats, whether it’s Essex beef, Yorkshire pork or Welsh lamb. Take your pick from a high-octane cuisine-hopping menu that runs from must-order blowtorched mackerel tacos freshened with sweet white miso and mashed avocado to little bowls of Thai-style larb combining roasted rice with ‘burnt ends’ for a spicy clash of textures. We recommend ordering the full quota of sauces and finishing off with a gooey-centred cookie, baked in a cast-iron pan. Well-considered cocktails, Aussie wines and mezcal flights dominate the drinks list, while enthusiastic, committed staff seal the deal at this thoroughly modern BBQ bunker.


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