SquareMeal Review of
Bench seating covered in 1950s British Rail carriage moquette gives a clue to the targeted clientele of this smart neighbourhood bar-diner. Suburb is a new indie operation positioned right by Clapham Junction station (Grant Road exit). If it attracts even a fraction of the rail hub’s annual 13 million users, the owners will be laughing. Tried and tested cocktails pepper the drinks list: Paloma, Bee’s Knees and Lemon Drop (£8) among a selection of Sours, Old Fashioneds and Manhattans. Racier house signatures include Belgian pils and peach beer flambéed with Cointreau and plum liqueur. Decent wine is sold at keep-it-real prices, but we’d like to see some local craft brews (Sambrook’s for instance) to join two from Meantime and various lad lagers. Food is a mix of crowd-pleasers – burgers, nachos, steaks (cooked on a hot stone) and vegetarian risotto – supplemented by a fondue for two (£26) and raclette open sandwiches.